Almond trees, towering gorge walls, Berber carpet workshops, irrigated fields at the base of the gorge. A complete lack of water, some water is flowing in the river but a fraction of what should be flowing from the Atlas Mountains at this time of year. A hotel of faded glory on the top of a … Continue reading Todra Gorge →

Two days without internet and camping in the desert has been a real break, although the first Moroccan coffee on driving out today was very welcomed. Erfoud is a hotspot location for fossils, and there was a truly amazing amount being worked at a local workshop. I was conflicted, while the tables and slabs being … Continue reading Back to civilisation →

A very long drive today, across the Middle Atlas with snow on the ground, visiting a nomad family, then descending to the valley floor where dates are grown and the temperature increased by maybe 25C. We are now in a casbah hotel and about to have the first beer for a few days.

It’s been an amazingly wet and cold day here, and the rain coat has been very valuable. I’ve been soaked a couple of times, while doing the Medina tour then later on the way back from a lovely relaxing hammam experience. I knew Morocco could be cold this time of year, just hadn’t realised how … Continue reading A rainy day in Fez →

Volubilis, a Roman town, on the very edge of the Roman Empire, with amazing mosaics and a view over the Rift mountains. It must have seemed like the edge of the world for the Romans stationed here. We had a great lunch at the tiny cafe here, Moroccan soup and chicken pastilla ( a sweet … Continue reading Volubilis & Meknes →

5pm is cat feeding time, every shop had a cluster of insistent cats waiting not so patiently for dinner. The telepathic hunger was almost palpable.

I’ll let the photographs do the talking, it’s a beautiful place with a slow pace. This is probably helped by the copious marijuana grown and dealt here, which made it a hippy heaven before it became an Instagram hotspot ! There’s some interesting smells wafting around still. Doors and alleyways of shades of blue; the … Continue reading Chafchauen, the blue city →

They are everywhere, some are street cats but cared for by local businesses, some are pets. None are starving or visibly ill, although I am touching none of them as some are distinctly grubby. Very friendly and not scared of people, as if they know they belong.

There’s similarities to capital cities around the world. Wide open roads, gracious buildings, a feeling of solemnity and administration, well kept gardens and big monuments. Rabat fits the stereotype, albeit with a 12th century casbah and great Atlantic coast to add some variety. Art gallery, and the King’s palace in Rabat. An unfinished 12th century … Continue reading Rabat, a capital city →

We passed through Casablanca today, and it was valuable to get a second impression, as the first visit was pretty uninspiring. The place still doesn’t rival Marrakech, but does have some interest after all. The square of pigeons … but the mosque, built in 1987 taking 6 years, is awe inspiring and enormous yet simple. … Continue reading Casablanca revisited →